Day 2: I had a full day to myself to
visit Lima. The rest of the group arrives later this evening. I took a bus tour
that went through all the districts of Lima, like the historical square and
Mira Flores. Visited the Inca Gold Museum, the biggest museum in Peru with the
most artefacts and historical facts of pre-Inca and Inca times. I spent the
afternoon walking along the Pacific shores and walking in Mira Flores district
(the “arty” area of Lima). We had our group meeting with our tour leader at 8
p.m. at the hotel. Some of us went for a drink afterwards before calling it a
night.
Day 3: Left Lima this morning,
taking a public bus south, following the Pacific coastline, before turning
towards the fertile mountain valleys that lie around the town of Nazca. It took
us through the driest desert regions on earth and into the winegrowing
landscapes of the Inca Valley, a region that produces some excellent vintage,
as well as Peru’s distinctive local tipple, Pisco, a particularly potent mix
made from the white grape. Final destination of the day is the oasis town of
Nazca, lying in the shadow of Cerro Blanco, which, at over 2000m, is the
highest sand dune on earth.
Day 4: Visited the famous Nazca
Lines today. Some specialists have
speculated that the Nazca Lines represent the world’s largest astrological
calendar. Huge birds, spiders, hales,
other creatures and geometrical figures are represented in outline. I climbed a few viewing platforms for views
out over the lines etched into the desert. Also visited the nearby Antonini
Archaeological Museum, the Chauchilla pre-Inca cemetery or the Nazca aqueduct. This
evening we took another overnight public bus, continuing south through the
night towards the city of Arequipa and the volcanic landscapes of Andean
Mountains.
Day 5: I love Arequipa! The
beautiful city is spectacularly located at the foot of the volcanic slopes of
El Misti, a perfect conical peak that rises to some 5822m above this grand
colonial city. The city itself was
founded by the Spanish in 1540, on the site of an old Inca settlement, and
today is famed for its colonial architecture, including that is arguably one of
the finest arcaded city squares anywhere in the Americas. After checking in our
hotel this morning, we had the rest of the day free to explore. A few of us
found a little coffee shop to grab a coffee and a bite to eat. I walked through
the Plaza de Armas and visited the immense twin-towered cathedral. Also visited
the 17th century churches of La Compania and San Agustin, the
colonial grandeur of Cas de Moras, and the extraordinary Santa Catalina Convent
(a miniature walled town in the heart of the city, which once housed 450 nuns
and serving ladies in total seclusion for nearly 4 centuries – riddled with a
network of cobbled streets and lavishly restored with period furnishings and
beautifully ornate touches, the convent is without a doubt one of the
highlights of the city). Krishna and I found a little café on top of a building
overlooking the main square and the cathedral, and spent the rest of the day
there in good conversation sipping wine, eating great food, and watching the
comings and goings.
Day 6: Very early rise, 3 a.m. to
drive to Colca Canyon. It’s a spectacular river gorge lying north of Arequipa.
It’s twice the depth of the more famous Grand Canyon and at one time it was
believed to be the deepest gorge on earth. The drive gave us the opportunity to
see the world of the Altiplano, where the Rio Colca meanders through a
landscape of towering volcanic peaks that offer a stunning backdrop to a land
inhabited by Cabana and Collagua Indians. It is home to the massive and
majestic Andean Condor, which we were fortunate to see take their morning
flight in search for food. We’ve seen amazing and breathtaking sceneries today!
Once returned to Arequipa, Krishna and I found our familiar spot at the café up
top overlooking the plaza. A few joined us later on for later dinner and a few
drinks.
Day 7: Took another public bus this
morning. We headed east, towards the beautiful landscapes that surround the
unique waters of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world
(3856m). Our destination was the town of Puno, a centre of Incan folklore
nestling in a bay at the northwestern tip of the lake. Once checked in our
hotel, we went for a guided walk around town. We are higher in altitude and
some are experiencing some altitude sickness. We had dinner at Balcones de
Puno, where we witnessed a live dance show of various cultural traditional
dances.
Day 8: Hoped on a boat this morning
to make our way to Taquile Island through this immense body of water. Lake
Titicaca’s shoreline has been the home to the Aymara and Quechua for millennia.
Its sacred waters have long been a site of religious ritual and devotion,
believed to be the site where the legendary founders of their dynasty arrived
on earth. On our way we explored
something of the unique world of the Uros people with a visit to Los Uros and
Taquille “floating islands”. The Uros people have lived on the lake itself for
countless generations, on “floating islands” of totora, a reed-like papyrus
that grows in the hallows and is used in the construction of houses and boats. The
Uros had little contact with mainland for generations, preferring instead to
isolate themselves amongst the reeds and waters of their marine environment. After
our visit, we continued on to Taquile Island, a setting that has managed to
preserve much of its Inca and pre-Incan heritage. We took a walk to the highest
point of the island where we could enjoy the golden glows of sunset. Our
accommodation is limited to rustic, dormstyle facilities in a local house (no
electricity). The view from my balcony was of the shoreline of Bolivia. The
night sky was absolutely spectacular!! With no city lights interfering, the
stars lit bright and the Milky Way was the clearest and brightest I’ve even
seen. I must have stayed hours outside looking up at the sky!!
Day 9: We had a free day to make the
most of a setting where the local people still preserve a rich tradition of
music and dance. We took a walk up to the Inca ruins, and visited the market
where we witnessed some traditional cultural dance and traditional clothing. We
returned by boat to Puno in the afternoon. Some of us strolled through the
markets in search of excellent Ilama and Alpaca wool items. Krishna and I attempted a restaurant, which
offered a view of the plaza and the cathedral, and we weren’t disappointed! Such
a great dinner and good tasting wine!
Day 10: Today we took a public bus to follow the legendary route taken by the first Inca ruler – Manco Capac – on his way to find Cuzco, passing though a landscape that is both desolate and magnificent, where flocks of Ilamas and alpacas graze amongst the windswept meadows. We travelled via the small market town of Ayaviri and La Raya, traversing the northern extremes of the Antiplano and crossing La Raya pass (42321m) and the continental divide, before beginning the descent towards Cusco along the Rio Vilcanota. This was a full day journey. A few of us took a quick city walk once arrived in Cusco and then called it an early night.
Day 11: The old capital of the Inca
Empire, Cusco is the archaeological capital of the Americas and the oldest
continuously inhabited city on the continent. Imbued with an atmosphere of
mystery and grandeur, the Spanish-style city of today, with its attractive pink
tiled roods, arcaded plazas and steep winding alleyways, stands upon tremendous
Inca foundation stones, its links with the Inca Empire everywhere to be seen,
from the stone walls that line the city streets, to the museums filled with
artefacts and relics of a long dead people. We made an orientation tour of the
city this morning, before having free time to explore further. We saw the Inca
wall of Hatunrumiyoc with its famous twelve-sided stone, as well as the rich
majesty of the Plaza de Armas and the incredible remains of Qorichcancha, once
the heart of Inca society. I visited many other monuments of more recent
colonial past, churches, and galleries in abundance! Krishna and I ended up in
an Irish Pub (Paddy’s Pub - know as the highest pub in the world) for the
evening.
Day 12: It’s
my Dad’s Birthday!! This morning we caught the train to Aquas Calientes, our
gateway to one of the greatest of all archaeological sites, Machu Picchu! The
so awaited highlight of my trip! The train slowly
meanders down the valley, following the tumultuous waters of the Urubamba River
through a series of rock cut tunnels. Once in Aquas Calientes, I hiked up to
the mountain complex of Machu Picchu, the fabled lost city. The rest of the morning
and all afternoon was spent in this magnificent city, exploring these
spectacular ruins! Temples, stairways, palaces and gable stone dwellings are
scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders. Built
in the mid 15th century by Pachacuti, the city was thought to have been a major
agricultural centre for the Incan Empire an its inaccessibility seems to have
preserved it rom the looters of the intervening years, resulting in the
remarkably well-preserved ruins that we see today. Once returned to Aquas
Calientes, we enjoyed nice late group dinner.
Day 13: Krishna and I took the
opportunity to re-visit Machu Picchu by taking a walk up to Wayna Picchu,
climbing a steep peak to look down on the Temple of the Sun, which affords some
spectacular views back towards Machu Picchu itself, set against the dramatic
backdrop of the Anders. In the afternoon we had the chance to relax in the
local thermal baths, before catching the train back to Cusco.
Day 14: With a full free day in
Cusco, I’ve covered plenty! I visited the market town of Pisac, strategically
located at the head of the Urubamba Valley. Pisac once controlled the road
connecting the Inca Empire with Paucartambo on its eastern borders and the
magnificent Inca ruins that once so dominated this valley still occupy the
mountainside above the town. I also visited the outlying Inca sites at Oengo,
Puka Pukara, Tambo Machay, and the fortress-citadel of Saqsaywaman. Built to
defend the Inca capital, Saqsaywaman broods high above the town, its huge,
zigzagging stone walls broken into 66 sharply projecting angles to catch
attackers in a withering crossfire. Later in the afternoon, Krishna and I hung
out at Paddy’s Pub until it was time to meet the rest to enjoy a last dinner
all together as a group. The restaurant was fantastic!
Day 15: Everyone left relatively
early this morning, returning to their homeland. My departure is for much later
in the day so this gives me the chance to visit Cusco a little more. I took the
opportunity to enjoy a coffee sitting in the central square, watching people go
by, and jotting my thoughts down, while enjoying my last moments. I started
thinking about my first day in Peru, in Lima… it seemed so long ago! I’ve seen,
experienced, and learned so much in a short period of time. Hands down, Machu Picchu is the highlight of
my trip (It was the entire point of my trip!). This is one big checkmark off my
bucketlist. I had an intense and sudden realization on that day, on Machu
Picchu… I’ll never forget this moment! So it is with a heavy heart that I leave
Peru, but not without expressing my gratitude for having the chance to
experience and see this beautiful country!
Photos - Click Here!
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